PAINTED FURNITURE MAKEOVER | VINTAGE TYPEWRITER DESK
Painting furniture can transform a dated and dingy piece into something revived and ready for any modern home. This vintage typewriter desk makeover is the perfect example of that process! Check out the easy steps to reviving this old piece.
THE “BEFORE”
Where do I start with this awesome desk? Yes, it was old and had peeling paint on it and some of the toe caps were missing. And maybe the hardware for the under-mount tray was gone. Ok, it was missing the entire tray underneath. But, boy, it was unique!
After researching the manufacturer and style of desk, I learned that desks like these were produced from the 1920s-1950s. My desk was likely built in the ‘30s- ‘40s based on the brand of typewriter that it held (the labels were still embedded in the inside drawers.
This desk appeared to be a large “teacher’s desk,” but when you pulled the center handle, a cutout in the middle rotated up and back while a tray at the bottom would simultaneously rotate up and forward, with a hidden typewriter ready to go! Just like a secret compartment!
I had my work cut out for me. To bring this typewriter desk back to its former glory, I knew I’d have to do the following:
1. Thoroughly clean and strip the current stain and paint from the piece.
2. Re-paint, re-stain, and re-seal.
3. Fabricate an under-mount tray and replace any missing hardware.
SOURCE LIST FOR THIS PAINTED FURNITURE MAKEOVER:
- Klean Strip Kwik-Strip Paint and Varnish Stripper
- Rust-oleum Milk Paint in Navy
- Odorless Mineral Spirits, such as Klean Strip Green or Jasco Green
- Rust-oleum Ultimate Wood Stain in American Walnut
- Rust-oleum Ultimate Wood Stain in Kona
- Minwax Polycrylic Protective Finish
- Purdy XL Paint Brush for paint
- Foam brushes for stain
- Purdy Nylox Paint Brush for topcoat
STRIPPING OLD LAYERS OF PAINT AND STAIN
There are a lot of products out there to strip paint and stain. For this project, I used Klean Strip Kwik-Strip Paint and Varnish Stripper. Because of the layers of paint on the top of the desk, I knew that I’d need something pretty powerful. After a good cleaning with a damp cloth, I applied the Kwik-Strip following the directions and slowly but surely, stripped the desk of its orangey-stain and peeling black paint with a plastic putty knife.
I will mention that I try to avoid stripping if I can. It can get messy, smelly, and time-consuming. However, I felt that this desk needed the extra TLC and didn’t deserve to just have more layers of paint slapped on it to cover up the ugly. It was worth the effort.
After the bulk of the residue was wiped away, I gave the desk’s body a quick sanding just to rough up the surface. Then, I sanded the top and drawer faces more thoroughly with 180-grit and 220-grit sandpaper and cleaned the wood with mineral spirits.
If you’ve ever used mineral spirits, you know that it is the best way to remove grime and build-up, just like the residue left behind from stripping and sanding. It picks up all the little specks of sawdust and dust and leaves the wood with a polished look. I like to use Klean Strip Green or Jasco “Green” Odorless Mineral Spirits.
PAINTING AND STAINING THE DESK
After the mineral spirits were completely dry, the desk was ready to be painted and stained. For these steps, I used Rust-oleum’s Milk Paint Finish in Navy and a blend of Rust-oleum’s American Walnut stain and Kona stain in a 2:1 ratio. The stain was easy to apply and I liked how the color looked on the bare wood. I applied stain to the top of the desk and the drawer fronts.
The paint was not a true milk paint but had a matte finish that I wanted without the price tag of more expensive milk paint brands. I used three coats to the body and legs of the desk via brush. After everything dried, I sealed it with Minwax Polycrylic Protective Finish.
This is a water-based product that tends to not yellow and is low odor compared to other products. The whole desk took three thin coats, but I added a fourth coat to the top, which needs more protection.
You can’t go wrong with Navy and gold tones!
REPLACING HARDWARE AND BUILDING A TRAY
As I mentioned earlier, this desk was missing several toe caps and the hidden tray underneath. I was able to measure and estimate the size of the tray based on the holes left by the hardware and construct a tray from MDF boards. It was a fairly simple tray with a base and raised back. I sanded, painted, and sealed these to match the navy base.
Next, I fastened the tray to the desk with the back hinges, but unfortunately was missing the front set of hinges. I searched high and low but was unable to find any hinges that fit and rotated the correct way. Let’s face it, the original hinges were likely constructed specifically for this desk and hadn’t been manufactured for almost 70 years!
Luckily, I was able to install some shelf support pegs and that enough to support the front of the tray as it slid up into place and then hold it level.
I also found similar toe caps in antiqued bronze from Van Dyke’s Restorers. By the way, I highly recommend Van Dykes for anyone trying to match antique hardware.
VINTAGE TYPEWRITER DESK MAKEOVER
This desk took on a pretty hefty overhaul! What do you think of the result? Have you ever come across a vintage typewriter desk? Tell me in the comment below!
If you enjoyed this furniture makeover, check out this armoire transformation or this pair of boho end tables as well!
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